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Tubular Speakers!  =8^D

$1,000 per pair.  To order, contact me at 'balkanguy at live dot com'.  I am located in Grover Beach, California.  Delivery available, or shipping to distant locations (via 'freight') for extra.  Permanent link to this ad here (the page U R on now = spread it far & wide to curious 'audiophiles'  =)

https://justpaste.it/59nch

IMPORTANT (Payment Details): I've been getting some mails offering various ways 2 pay 4 them. 2 simplify this, I only accept postal money order. I take it to a post office and cash it for real currency and that way it doesn't take weeks to clear. =D Even cashiers checks & other so-called 'secure' bank stuff is not really guaranteed & can bounce or reverse, so requires weeks of waiting before it clears & I transfer it into a secure (non-attached) account, or whatever so I can provide the merchandise, etc.. By contrast, the post office is simple & quick & secure because they just check their computer & whatever & the cash real & so on = no need to even verify with a bank. I do not give product until all payment has cleared into the form of verifiable physical cash this way, Thanx =) More details here:
https://www.usps.com/shop/money-orders.htm

Note: You can use PayPal if you prefer but it is important to know that I transfer funds out of the 'temporary' one that is liked to PayPal so it can not be reversed. I DO provide a refund if you change your mind & after inspection I verify they have not been damaged. I am in control of that decision & not PayPal. This merely avoids situations where the item has been altered or damaged & refund is attempted through PayPal without my consent. More details here:
https://justpaste.it/1hn4m

Quick Intro.:

I've worked the audio biz in various facets for years and heard bazillions of great designs & learned many trix 2 make things sound GR8, & this guy combines the best speaker-related ones. Ironically, by the time I solved all the 'speaker issues' 2 build the 'ultimate performer', I had already transitioned to flipping houses ( = more $ 4 less work), but hey may as well SHARE THE JOY! =)

These are really 'Excellent For Everything', from stereo listening to movies & even small club PA! They CAN go VERY loud, but they do not have 2 B played loud. They sound clear & natural even at very low volume, with glorious 'depth' that gives 'size' to sounds and 'transports' you into the scenes better. It is 'The Tubular Experience'? =)) If you have the space for them in your 'Home Theater' U could even get additional pairs 2 use as 'surrounds' 4 the 'Super-Ultimate Experience'. Just direct ALL of them 2 get the 'bass' signals mixed in through 'output matrix' so it's like U R adding more 'subs' too = neat bonus! YAAAY! =8^D

Specs:

Size: 20" (twenty inches) diameter, & about 5.5' (five and a half feet) high, they are very LIGHT for the size, & E Z 2 position on the 3 cute built-in 'self-leveling' wheels ~ as they say in 'geometry class': "3 points make a plane" = will never 'wobble'.

Frequency Response: About 17Hz to about 22Khz. NOTE: These sound OK in terms of 'balance' (like many 'house' speakers) depending on your room & where they are placed, but for BY FAR the BEST performance you really NEED to 'Custom EQ' them. This can be done easily & FREE within a computer using programs like 'AC3Filter'...
http://www.ac3filter.net/

Or a variety of cheap but good 'rack EQs' off Fleabay & others. At least 3 bands parametric, or 30 band graphic are recommended for ideal performance (to grab the proper frequencies to tame your room setup). This extra step is NOT 'required' but very HELPFUL if you want the BEST sound =8^D

Sensitivity: About 97db = this is VERY sensitive = don't need many watts. Will play quite LOUD even with a trashy little '1 watt' type amp from a 'junk' computer speaker ~ not kidding. Yes really I verified this =) For instance, 3db more in 'SPL' (efficiency) = DOUBLE the sound output (& 'watts'). A typical speaker with say, 85db efficiency, driven by 40 watts of amplifier power, will put out only 1/8 the amount of sound of these big tube speakers, & if you put that same 40 watts through the big tubes you would get 8X the sound level in the room, etc.

Power Handling: 500 watts per channel (8 ohms) non stop all day long forever. U don't 'have 2', but they CAN go extremely LOUD when desired = lots of DyNaMiCs! =) Factor in also the 'maximum power handling' of that 'average efficiency' speaker rated at '85db' and the 'value ratio' becomes more apparent with these big tubes. Say the others have a 'max power' rating of '125 watts'. That means that these big tube speakers can put out 32X more sound, because they can handle 500 watts instead of just 125, PLUS they are 8X more 'Efficient'. Even if you don't ever play them loud, the sound quality is improved at ANY volume because it is delivered 'Effortlessly' with 'Bottomless', quick, detailed & rigid deep bass, BETTER than 'subwoofers'. It's like if you ask a pro weightlifter to help you move some furniture. It is much quicker & easier for them to do.

Peak Power Handling: Once U hear (& FEEL) how loud they can go with 500 you will not be concerned at all with this 'peak' stuff, but it's a LOT! =)) I SUGGEST not getting an amp that can put out more than about 450 per channel 'RMS' ( = 'continuous' watts, not 'peak') into 8 ohms, just to be 'safe' & not have to worry about harming something. The amp will 'self limit' and so on to let you know to turn things down if needed. The Behringer EP2500 work great with them and are cheap. Roughly identical amps include the Behringer 'EP4000', Pyle 'PEA6000', DAP 'PRO Mission 1500', QSC 'RMX2450', & Tapco 'Juice J2500'. More detail on WHY these are GREAT amp choices here:
https://justpaste.it/5l193

All of these are also INEXPENSVIE and SOUND AMAZING! =D The names may not have 'fashion value' or 'bragging rights', but their PERFORMANCE is AWESOME ~;)

Value 4 $:

These tube speakers are expensive but worth the price because they are very large, which is required for best 'thunderously effortless & detailed' sound with deep, rigid, sledgehammer bass (very different from 'boom cars' LOL). Regardless of what 'popular' home theater/stereo marketing propaganda might say, size is simply a physics issue. When you see a system for big clubs and music concerts, is it a little 'bookshelf' size thing (think 'Bose')? Some have even tried making tiny things to compete, but the sound ends up ill defined and 'slow' &/or 'processed' rather than natural (think 'Sunfire' mini long-throw subs).

These have heavy duty drivers & such to outperform most speakers costing much more or even tens of thousands of dollars. I've worked high end audio & pro & 'commercial' sound & other things in the electronics field & know this based on direct experience & comparison. This design combines the best 'sonically functional' (though not necessarily the nicest looking) features from designs that sound great.

You might think of these like one of those 'Atom' sports cars. They have great PERFORMANCE, but "Atoms" do not look like a typical car and it is partly because of this that they can do things even most fancy sports cars can't. Since they are really just 'frame & wings', it makes them relatively inexpensive, light, & agile. With most fancy speakers the vast majority of the cost is the cabinet & the marketing & the 'overhead' (store markup, etc.), similar to cars = mostly the 'cosmetics' and 'marketing'...

These tube speakers are designed to lead in 'quality sound vs. dollars spent' ratio. In other words, no other design regardless of price (large or small) has a higher 'bang for the buck' in terms of how much sound quality you are getting for the money. Think of it like 'economy of scale'. For instance, these use a big 18" 'bass/mid' driver. The mids mostly actually come off the 'spider'. It is the 'suspension' component where the cone joins the voice coil & the sound that comes from it is just THROWN AWAY in other designs where this part is located INSIDE the enclosure & oriented out of the horizontal plane, making it's 'bonus performance' useless anyway. A smaller 'bass/mid' driver is typically less expensive but usually have LESS upper frequency range than a YUUUGE 18" mounted 'upside down' like I do in the tube setup.

Parts & Reliability:

NOTE: The big 'Driver' there might look rather 'Generic', & really it IS! =)) Not 'bad', but 'typical' in design, but ARRANGED very differently (upside down, on top, with screen & dust cap removed to improve sound & mount the 'tweeter post' 2). It's funny because I also tried many 'E$oteric Boutique' type 'Audiophile' cost-no-object(ion) & '$uper High Output Extra Throw' type big sub drivers but they don't sound as nice in the mids due to the extra weight & stiffness of all the stuff in there that they need to 'brace' themselves for the task. Like for example there is a neodymium design that throws a clean 2" instead of about 1" like these, but the cones are reinforced with expxy & carbon fiber to keep them from tearing at high volume & that harms the clarity of the sound at ANY volume = 'Louder But Muddier' LOL It's yet another example of 'More Expen$ive Does Not Mean Better' I'd say 7mm 'one way Xmax' spec is the limit in terms of reliability & price & performance. Given the need for 'extra' strength, longer throw tend to be either unreliable or sound worse (or both), & less throw is not 'advantageous' in 'price/performance' ratio.

Tip: On a side note, 'neo' magnets can rot, unlike most others ('Ceramic' is $afe =) Neo-Mag$ R a a pressed powder thing & as the plating degrades over the years they can disintegrate back to powder. I've had this happen to 'neodymium' magnet speaker drivers just sitting in storage ~ WHOA NO!! =:-o Neo magnets? Stay away... unless it's a hard drive or something else 'sealed'.

More Advantages:

Back to 'Diameter Advantages' ... Smaller drivers also have much smaller surface area and very little displacement capability compared to large diameter drivers, so the amount amount of great quality sound they can create is usually less than 30% of what you can get from a larger driver like an 18". Now take into account the fact that an 18" is only about double the price of a fancy smaller driver (& in many cases the big 18" is actually CHEAPER!) & you are gaining about 40% in 'sound quality value' by going BIG! =D I hope that doesn't seem too 'statistically complex' =))

Think of it like 'bulk buying' potatoes for cooking. You can buy them at grocery stores one at a time (expensive), or 10 pound bags (not so bad), or a big 50 pound bag (bargain = IF you actually USE them. What EYE do is chop up & boil ALL of them at once & put them into jars straight off the stove (very hot), which sterilizes the inside of the jars after you close them & turn them upside down, so you have 'cheap' potatoes as long as you need without having to refrigerate them. Anybody can exploit this neat 'budget hacking' trick, the same way I exploit the fact that a 'cheap' big cardboard tube (concrete pillar pouring form) can not flex from internal sound pressure, and so it has superior performance (freedom from 'wall resonance') vs. any fancy 'box' speaker enclosure regardless of price or material or construction design (including 'braced' ones).

Because in a tube the internal pressure has nowhere to go but out the 'valve' (or 'tuned port' in the case of a speaker like this) all of the axial forces against it (the internal air pressure) is converted to 'longitudinal' stresses (like 'pulling' the the cardboard 'sheet', or the metal walls of a cylindrical pressurized gas tank). This is why propane is not stored in 'boxes' =)) They would bulge out & fail ~ unless they were ridiculously thick & heavy, which is very WA$TEFUL de$ign! =:-o Round = $trongest 4 the $$$!! YAAAY! =D

Problems Solved:

Y don't ALL speakers use tubes? Part of it is just 'perception', like people rarely think to try it, or maybe have other problems with the design. I did notice there IS a slight problem with 'roundness' in that it tends to 'ring' inside because the symmetry of the air column can act a bit like a 'spring', the same way a saxophone or other 'wind' instrument works, so I solved this with a unique asymmetrical 'internal muffler' type arrangement that uses multiple staggered 'end levels' & 'floating' midrange sound absorbing 'curtains' to dampen those things out so 'No Problemo' =8^D Drummers do something similar sometimes by throwing pillows inside a kick drum so they just 'slam' rather than 'resonate', but this is more sophisticated.

The big 18" driver on each side can keep up with or surpass the performance of most of the best & very expensive 'High End' systems, & have clean & clear response from about 17Hz deep bass, to 22Khz via the dual tweeter array (most people over 30 can't even hear much past about 15Khz ~ which is actually quite high pitch, & the other 7k past that is 1/4 octave more & just 'gravy'). The sound is clear & precise with lots of 'Capability' for MASSIVE volume output, which gives a great sense of 'Effortless & Space' to everything even when played back at low volumes. Imaging / 'Sound Staging' of the stereo spread is very 'Luxurious' & 'Holographic' in a '3D' sort of way for that 'You Are There' vibe too! If you are interested to buy high performance speakers and willing to pay $1,000 or more for your speaker purchase, contact me for details =)

Freebies:

Oh BTW: They include FREE cabling! You don't need fancy 'audiophile' cables to sound good. I've noticed these sound BEST with around a dozen feet on each side of 'zip cord' with aluminum on 1 pole & copper on the other. There is probably some fascinating 'scientifickey' explanation Y, but it 'evens out' the sound better than all copper or even fancy 'spectra strip' multi-twisted pair stuff. It's a similar effect to using really thin 'video style' wire profiles for guitars and stereo gear at 'line level' = more clarity. Maybe the way it helps the sound quality is some 'specification' they haven't figured out a way 2 measure yet? B thankful this trick ALSO $aves U $$$! =D Here are some other 'audiophile' tips U may find interesting...
https://justpaste.it/4enwk

Inve$tment:

NOTE: If U R an 'Inve$tor' type or know some1 who might B, I'm happy to share with people willing 2 give me a $lice of the $ales $$$ from a 'Refined Approach' 2 this design, like maybe something with a fancier (looking) cabinet & so on... maybe even a (thin mesh) grille... though ANY sort of grille ALWAYS degrades the sound a bit (sometimes a LOT). Something that could further improve the performance would be to re-release (via custom production run) silk (not 'mylar') 'Linaeum' style tweeter technology that is not currently being made, for an extra bit of 'Ethereal Clarity' in the highs (details on request).

Again THIS design pictured on THIS ad is all about maximizing price-to-PERFORMANCE ratio, not 'cosmetic style', etc. There are many ideas (some not too costly) that can maybe 'stylistically' enhance it 4 U! =D Like 4 instance the tubes are covered with a bamboo blind to make them look less 'industrial'. There are like 10 bazillion ways to 'cover' a surface (or object) to 'hide' or 'improve' it's 'visual vibe', like you could just paint them to match a wall, and put thin fabric of the same color of the wall in a 'cap' to conceal the 'mechanicals' on top! Call them 'The Tubular Chameleons'? HAHA
https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/the-secret-to-chameleons-ability-to-change-color/