Great 'Value' product (nice sound 4 cheap =) Aardvark 'Direct Pro 24/96' = My Favorite! =)

 

 

Rear View...

 

Aardvark stuff U C here is just the 'Breakout Boxes'.  The Digital Audio Converters (DACs) R on the 'Legacy' 32 bit PCI cards, & therein lies the 'catch' HAHA ~ the driver is only written 2 support up to XP!  Now, MAYBE it runs on later stuff, but I haven't tried, 'kuz I'm an XP fan 'kuz everything else simply blows (inflexible & slow by comparison).  Did'ja no SexPee (Bill'$ big inside joke!) runs about 30% of the world's PCs?  True!  Ever look @ what a typical bank is using?  It runs almost all the ATMs on Earth, 4 starters ~ from power plants 2 ships & on & on, we want $hit that actually WERX!  N E wayz, U can run up 2 4 of N E Aardvark model 2gether (as far as what the driver sees, which seems 'arbitrary')...

 

If U want some 'Holy Grail Audiophile Heaven', take the 'Fancy Clock' Aardvark digital 'S/PDIF' output from the RCA jack on the card there into a Sony TAE2000ESD 2 use it's superior 1-bit DAC =D

 

The sound is much better than taking the digital out of other typical devices.  It's the CLOCKING of the Aardvark that removes a lot of the blur & haze & 'flubbyness' U get from other DACs without even realizing it was there. That's typical in 'Audiophelia' = U don't notice how AWESOME something is until switching BACK 2 something INFERIOR U were using B 4.  "Leap-Frogging" little incrimental improvements eventually (in this case at least) results in total 'U R There' realism =)  The only improvement 2 make really is 2 use the same analog headphone out section as found in the IBM S50 PC. Yes I know ~ sounds very strange, but it was a FLUKE! = a 'Happy Accident' =D

 

The sound is a bit noisy until you remove the unnecessary 'CD Line In' cable from the audio section of the motherboard, & even after that there is still the dreaded 'mouse static' stuff in the distance (if don't run near the top of the volume range), but those are 'shielding' issues.  It's like how U can tell the difference between a drum set in a room in front of you compared to one being played back over a boom box.  Just because there may be traffic noise on the road outside does not make it less 'live' in it's AWE$OMENE$$ =D  & that's what it's got = AMAZING sense of 'space' 2 it ~ lots of depth & slam & 'air', so 'U R THERE!' ~;D  & 2 think it's just the UNINTENTIONALLY GLORIOUS combination of their particular choice of analog section, combined with the marvelously smooth Analog Devices 'AD1981B' audio chip = that little 'eraser head' size square on the upper right side near the jacks there...

 

I worked high end 'Audiophelia' about 20 years. I've heard it all (pretty much =)  This is a FORTUNATE BARGAIN ~ the 'In$ide $coop!' =D  It's always GR8 2 find $tuff that outperforms many fancy high priced alternatives, & U can't beat FREE!!  People would dump these guys on the street!  It's no surprise, as it was the best selling PC ever made (very popular in 'Indu$trial' applications, retail, etc.).  Meanwhile, back in Aardvark Land: Side view...

 

Bottom...

 

 

Shell...

 

 

Brainz =D  Notice the metal 'oil can' style caps = cleaner sound than 'plastic' looking ones.  Typically when people talk about 'narrow tolerance' caps of 'military' precision, they look like these guyz, & R more stable & able 2 handle higher temperatures without losing spec, etc..  What U get is sound that has less coloration & more like a 'window' 2 the source.  If U C stuff like this on a sound card, it will probably sound GR8, & on a motherboard, it will probably last longer (inferior cap failure is a common source of computer unreliability)...

 

 

Here R pix of the Aardvark 'Q10'...

 

 

So much Purpleness!  Is Igor (Aardvark 'Clock Man') a Prince fan? =))

 

 

The case design is GR8, as rack stuff goes = E Z access 2 stuff 4 modding & whatever 'kuz 3 of the 'walls' R removed when U take the top off.

 

 

Notice the INFERIOR 'plastic' type caps.  These units sound EXCELLENT, but the 'Direct Pro 24/96' model sounds even BETTER =D  They R more 'pure' sounding, whereas these R more 'retro' (warm).  The effect of changing caps can B subtle, & even within 'plastic-looking' caps there is a LOT of variation in sound, 'Sprague' (orange) brand being my favorite = more even rather than 'hollow' in sound.  You notice these things when buying many units of the same model and some having different sound than others, like a Peavey 'Rockmaster' preamp with plastic push-pull pots on it sound better than the ones with metal shaft. 

 

Or course, it may not be the metal shaft doing the sound business as I have not directly swapped just that component both ways 2 C if that's what's causing it all, but SOMETHING associated with that build using those pots sounds different, and is consistent across many units, so a great 'shopping' tip.  Even within the plastic-shaft push-pull pot units (all the same model) there is variation in sound.  I have a bunch of them I rent out, & the best 4 all sound different. I have them arranged in my rack from 'Extra-Awesome' 2 'Awesome', and 'Amazing' 'Great' on down the line to 'Fab' LOL 

 

Swapping tubes for 'New Old Stock' (N.O.S.) types like 'Ancient' Sylvania, Raytheon, RCA, Hammond & others also DRAMATICALLY improves the sound, & tube types, from 2AU7 on up to 'Penta Labs' madness (ridiculously high gain, but more 'harsh' & 'transistorey' texture 2 it).  NOS 12AU7 make them sound more 'ampey' (like 'guitar power amp distortion') whereas say, 'Tesla/JJ' tubes (common in 'Me$a Boogie' model$) give a more 'modern' texture ~ intricate but not as warm or 'compressey'.  Of course, U can also mix & match different types of tubes within the 4 it carries) so long as they R '12AX7 Compatible' ~;D

 

 

The plastic face is attached to a metal backing.  It would $ave $$$ & look better to have stayed with standard black 'gear style' cosmetics like the 'Direct Pro 24/96' (& standard corner 'ears').  A rack looks best when everything is black & 'disappears' EXCEPT 4 when U look close 2 C the features clearly laid out & labeled on it 2 actually USE it.  If we want 2 C something 'pretty', don't WA$TE your time 'dressing up' a dead object.  We'll check out a hottie instead =8^D

 

 

The main flaw with these 'Q10' units (besides the 'unprofessional' & rather 'plastickey' toy-like face) is they use very fragile potentiometers for the knobs on the right, & they R not even physically attached 2 the face, but 'floating' on legs 2 the internal board.  About half the ones I receive arrive with damage to one or both of the pots because of that.  My guess is this was a 'planned obsolescence' feature 2 PURPOSELY make them break really fast so as to avoid warranty claims, as if N E other problems with the unit were the result of somebody bumping into the knob(s) & wrecking things 'upstream'.  Hoo noze!  Every1'z got an angle.  1 of the main reasons there R not electric cars all over is 'kuz they can B much more reliable, which doesn't net builder$ as much $$$ on '$ervice' 2 them...

 

 

So finally, what 2 listen 2 these things with?  What speakers & headphones 2 reach that 'final stage'?  There is another amazing discovery! =D  I've tried BAZILLIONS & discovered AS HEADPHONES GO, PRICE HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH SOUND QUALITY.  Even some of the most expensive ones (hundreds of dollars & up) sound beyond horrid (usually very jaggy & bright & mismatched texture across the frequency ranges).  4 example, 'Martin Logan' brand speakers use 'electrostatic' diaphragms for the mids on up but sound basically like broken glass = no fun @ all =P  They certainly LOOK kool tho', & their uniquely 'modern' appearance & high price is GR8 4 'Bragging Rights' & 'Conver$ation Topic' material HAHA  More on that 'Brand $nob' $tuf here:

http://paulrand.coolpage.biz/NeptuneHolographics/compare_neptune.htm#more1B

 

Fortunately, this 'Cheap Garbage' called 'Auvio Pearl Buds' that used 2 B $old @ Radio $hack sound INCREDIBLE = the overall WINNER 4 BEST SOUND!  The drawback is they have about a 60% defect rate LOL!!! & even after weeding out the flakey ones (like mismatched volumes or other sonic flaws ~ must B 'hand made' 2 B that inconsistent) they STILL all sound a little different from each other.  U might say it's like fine wine ~ 'Cork$niffery' =))  Gheto-Awe$omene$$!! =D

 

 

WTF W/Klounz ABU$ING their Precious Pearl Buds mangling the cords like that.  Loop them in a big circle, or hang straight!  The 'passive aggressive' nature of the manufacturer had them doing this, even even adding insult 2 injury wrapping the cord around itself instead of a twisty tie, so U end up with a nearly permanent 'pig tail squiggle' in the cord that takes YEARS to straighten itself out = INSAAANE!!!  I also contacted the manufacturer with some tips how to improve their quality control, but they were unwilling to acknowledge there was a problem (typical management insanity I guess ~ $ub$idized??)  I also contacted Radio $hack, who then switched 2 a different builder in China who approximated the design but it doesn't sound as nice (kind of harsh & 'scratchy' by comparison, & with silly flat cable that doesn't hang as straight).  They call them 'Auvio 2.0' LOL

 

NOTE: Loop them OVER the ear, otherwise U won't get a GR8 seal, & the 'tips' (the black soft rubber 'insert' thingies that U stuff in your ear 2 create a seal there) that they come with SUK!  I mean, they DO seal well, but they R overly stiff & tend 2 cause a bit of 'Boom/Sizzle' character because of their overly rigid connection 2 your ear canal.  It's like if U have speakers & mount them into a big empty resonant box vs something well-padded.  The sound is different, so in this case it is like if U look at your ear canal like a speaker box all these little tweaks make much more sense =)  It's just on a smaller scale! =D 

 

I'm quite the 'Connoisseur' of earbud tips & have an extensive collection of the best types ~ probably the most knowledgeable in the world on how they affect sound quality.  I've yet to even see research papers on the subject. I should maybe post a site about it as I have over 70 pages of notes on the different kinds compared against each other =D  Mail me if interested at 'balkanguy at live dot com' if you need help with a design or whatever.  I find the best 2 M8 W/Pearl Buds overall (in terms of how EYE like 2 use them) R the big 1's from the Maxell '190300 - IEMICBLK' model shown here.  With these tips they sound more lush & transparent = uncolored, & COMFORTABLE 4 long periods 2, like watching movies! =D 

 

There is a particular Koss model (Large) tip that is also GR8 (a close 2'nd), but a bit loose in the bass because the material is thinner, but this can B desirable if U want 2 shape the bass 2 roll off a little & an overal more 'midrangey' vibe.  Another certain 'Auvio' model has GR8 (softer than Pearl Bud) tips, but the best 1's R the 'medium' from that model 4 'Deep Penetration' if U want 'Super-Bass' = lower & louder ~ but mids R a bit more 'in your face' as not using as much of the ear canal.  The difference when switching tips is like what U hear when altering the types & ammounts & locations of stuffing inside a speaker enclosure, & moving them to different positions within a listening space.  Your Ear Canal is like the 'Listening Room', and the tips are like the 'Speaker Enclosures' = they effect things in the same inter-dependent way.

 

 

Through Radio $hack, they forwarded my advices on the Auvios to 'Beats', who (after having been purchased by Apple) made some models that actually sound GOOD instead of absolute krap (the irony =))  N E way, if U want 2 get SIMILAR 2 Auvio Pearl Bud (1.0) sound, get some 'UR Beats' (the MODERN ones) and stick these Maxell tips on them & sounds ALMOST as good!  How AWESOME that they took my advices & modeled some new 'Beats' models on 'The Auvio Pearl Bud $ound' =)  NOTE that 'Auvio' is just a 'Marketing' name, & most of the different models all sound very different, like the 'Expen$ive' & 'Elite' Auvio models R made in different factories & sound TERRIBLE compared 2 the Pearl Buds (& YES I have tried them ALL!). 

 

& 2 think, 2 get 'Pearl Bud 1.0' $ound U can now pay $100 (or whatever) for some new 'UR Beat$' instead of $7 or $14 (or $3.50 on 'Clo$eout' LOL!!) 4 the original 'Pearl Buds' they R based on ~ sometimes 'progre$$' in value (price-wise) flows in rever$e! The NEW UR Beats (by comparison) lack a bit of clarity & deep bass slam by comparison though. It's all a matter of degrees, & keep in mind those cost like $100 or something = but NOT a bad value still.  Also IF U want 2 go that route, get them from a MAJOR retailer, as MOST of the so-called 'Beats' (or N E $uper-High-Profit) item out there (especially on Fleabay or Amazon) R COUNTERFEIT$!!!  Problem with fakers is they often sound totally different ~ & lot of people don't care 'kuz just buying them 4 the 'Logo' $tyle factor =:-o

 

ALSO keep in mind I haven't tried the UR Beats line in a few years since I noticed this POSITIVE sonic change (based on my ideas =) so MAYBE they have altered the design since then (yet again)... so if sticking these tips on there doesn't give U an 'impressive' experience, yea' they definitely went Bak 2 Sukville LOL I found it especially funny how retailers (before the design change) would say 'yeah for great bass get Beats', yet their earbud phones were scratchy and WEAK on the bass = very jagged, ugly sound. Meanwhile some 'random krap' like 'El-Cheapo' Sony 'EX' $erie$ wipe the floor with them (though less efficient & less slam than the Pearl Buds 'kuz the port holes R 2 small ~ but otherwise quite similar & GOOD!).  Koss & Klipsch have similar issues ~ among other problems (even SMALLER ports than $ony$).  People swap manufacturers & build quality a LOT. Like 4 instance 'Polaroid' would $ell TVs with their name slapped on the front, but they were actually a 'random' Chine$e brand. There was a big mess about it 'kuz they would catch fire & stuff even though it had all the required 'UL' listings & safety license permits shown on the back labels ~ but turns out it was all FAKE! They just PRINT the stuff there PRETENDING they safety-tested it = FRAUD! =:-o

 

Continued here... Bak 2 'Auvio-Land'... So what is the 'Magik' in theeze guyz?  My guess is a fortunate combination of wide magnetic gap (wider than most, for more uniform flux density & free & E Z air flow 2 the 'tuning' ports), a near optimal 'back wave filter' (whatever they call those 'variovents' on the back side of those little ear bud drivers) & other random stuff I haven't isolated yet (wire gauges & #, etc.) ~ & certainly the 'hand gluing' that is probably Y they all sound a little different.  I put each of them in a separate little ziploc with a note 2 describe their unique sound, & my favorite pair I gently lay out 4 listening, handling them like they cost $10,000, because they may as well!  You can $PEND more but won't get U N E where 'Higher' =D  It really is like sitting in front of a giant set of really awesome speakers, without all the 'disturbance' (or electrical cost of running that big stuff either =)  It's similar to how U can use 'Visual Angle' to your advantage when movie watching.  A YUGE screen will look the SAME size as a 'small' one that is simply closer 2 your eyes =8^D  Interesting 'calculator' 4 that here:

http://elvers.us/perception/visualAngle/

Here's what the 'Pearl Bud' ('1.0' = Original ver$ion) looks like inside:

 

 

Those little holes on the left there are 'acoustic vents' that help shape the frequency balance coming off the driver as it vents through a semi-permiable layer of 'something' on the back side.  Removing this layer causes a very hollow (though louder) sound.  The 'Silver Button' thing in the center of the 'Bowl' there is the little neodymium magnet.  I ran some 'burn-in' tests playing Pearl Buds for a few daze @ loud volz & gave a more 'retro' sound, with more midrange & less highs, & recessed, looser bass. It was not a 'bad' sound, but not as clear.  They were also significantly QUITER than original, which got me thinking... 

I reached the maximum 'justpasteit' images 4 1 page, so continued here ... https://justpaste.it/7h7xi