The Plumbing Repair Guy, a Calgary Plumber, illustrates how even the casual homeowner can quickly resolve common toilet issues.
Table of Content
- Introductions
- Problem 1: Water dripping into the bowl.
- Problem 2: A flow of water enters the tank.
- Problem 3: Slowly, the bowl drains.
- Problem 4: The Dreadful Clog
- Problem 5: Seals with a Hole
- Conclusion
Problem 1: Water dripping into the bowl.
You might hear your toilet refilling by itself, as if it has been emptied, from time to time. Whenever a toilet goes on and off by itself or runs continually, it is known as a phantom flush. The problem is caused by a slow leak from the tank into the bowl. This problem is probably certainly caused by a malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat. The repair is to drain the tank and bowl, inspect and clean the flapper seat, and replace the flap if it is worn or damaged.
Problem 2: A flow of water enters the tank.
If your toilet keeps hissing, it's probably because water is trickling into the tank through the supply line. In this case, the float, refilling tube, and ballcock or air intake assembly should all be checked. The hissing noise is mainly caused by water entering the input valve. First, make sure the float isn't stuck or has to be changed. Check that the refill tube isn't pushed too far into the overflow tube after that. (It should only go about 1/4" below the rim of the overflow tube.) If none of these changes solves the problem, the ballcock assembly will very certainly need to be replaced, as described above.
Problem 3: Slowly, the bowl drains.
Clogged holes beneath the bowl's rim are the most common cause of a slow-emptying bowl, often known as a weak flush. To remove out any dirt, carefully poke each flush hole with a bent piece of wire. Coat-hanger wire will suffice, and a small mirror will aid see beneath the rim. You can even use wire to dislodge any debris that is clogging the drain's suction jet at the bottom. Make sure you don't scratch the bowl.
Problem 4: The Dreadful Clog
Clogs are also a typical toilet problem. A clogged drain can be unclogged using a variety of tools. A force-cup plunge is more effective than a conventional plunge for eliminating minor obstructions. Place the bulb in the drainage and pump vigorously. Loosen the handle slowly, letting a bit of water to flow to check the drain's condition. Repeat the cycle if necessary.
Use a closet digger if you have major clogs. Insert the auger's tip into the toilet drain hole and turn the handle downward while pressing the rotor. If you don't want to scratch the bowl, be careful.
Problem 5: Seals with a Hole
At least 5 seals on a conventional toilet have the ability to leak. The answer in each scenario is to locate the defective seal and adjust or replace it. The seal between both the tank and the bowl is the biggest. With each flush, a break here will cause a large leak, with water spilling out from beneath the tank. To replace this seal, the tank must be drained and removed. Turn the tanks upside down for better access. Remove the existing seal and put a new one in its place. Small seals near the ballcock's base and the fastening bolts may also fail, resulting in tiny leaks. Replace them in the same way. The leak can sometimes be stopped by tightening the bolts or mounting nut.
The wax seal, which is fixed on a plastic flange beneath the toilet base, provides the final closure. Water leaking beneath the toilet seat will eventually destroy the floor if this seal fails. Caulking the base of the toilet without addressing the leak will just retain the water and make the situation worse. You'll have to remove the toilet and change the wax seal to fix a leak around the base of the toilet. If the leak is triggered by a broken flange, call a emergency plumber for assistance.