This is your chance to learn how you can winterize your outboard for the off-season. This guide will show you how to do it correctly and give you a checklist of all the items you need. This is based on a Yamaha Outboard Motor 150, but the same principles can be applied to any 2 stroke motor.
List of supplies:
- Earmuffs
- Hose
- Screwdriver
- Stabil fuel stabilizer
- Socket Wrench
- Fogging Oil
- Lower Unit Gear Oil 1 Quart
- Fill the lower unit with water
Washers to attach to the screws on the lower unit
We are now ready to start, having all the supplies we need (which will only cost $30 instead of 300 for a local mechanic or marina).
First, remove your gas cap. Next, add the correct amount of stabilize to your gas tank. Follow the instructions on the container. Next, remove the engine cowling and unfasten the cover. Mine has 12 screws. Once you are done, get off the boat, and then place the intake screen on your lower unit. Make sure that the water is flowing freely before you turn on the engine.
Once you've made sure that you have enough water, turn on the engine and let it run for 15 minutes to flush out any salt. You shouldn't be alarmed that the engine is louder than normal. The muffler is often under the water, and there will be some smoke from the prop's exhaust fumes. You should see a steady stream of water from the "pee hole". It won't be as strong or as strong as when there are boats in the water, but it should still be steady.
After the Honda outboard motor has been running for 15 minutes, it is time to fog the engine. While the engine is still running, start spraying the fogging oils into each carb. Make sure to alternate evenly between them. Keep doing this until the engine almost stops on larger motors. You will then hear it conk out and start to smoke. This is a sign that you are doing it correctly. Once you've done all of this, the engine should almost stop. **Note: The engine may stall on smaller outboards. This is fine. **
Next, we will fog each spark plug. Your socket wrench is handy here. Unscrew the spark plugs, spray some fogging oils into the holes and on each plug. Then spin the flywheel to let the oil in. Repeat this for each plug. Once that's completed, it's time to change the lower unit oil.
Here's where things can get messy. Before you remove any screws, make sure that you place a drain pan under the unit. To drain the oil, you will need 2 screws. You will find the first screw near the bottom of your skeg. Once you have removed the first, oil will immediately start to pour out. Once you have removed the first screw, you can remove the second one. It will be located above the first screw. The oil will drain faster once you have finished unscrewing it. Before adding new gear oil, let the oil drain completely.
While the oil drains, you can remove the washers from the screws and place the new washers while the oil drains. You should inspect the oil as it drains to ensure that there is no milky oil, which means water is getting into it. If this happens you'll have a bigger problem. Now that all the oil is gone, it's time to add new gear oil to the lower unit. Take the pump that you purchased (each manufacturer makes its own, ask your local marine shop), and screw it into the bottle. Then place the other end into the drain hole of the skeg. Pump until you have used up the whole quart. Once that is done, screw the skeg screw into the drain hole. Oil will soon come back out of the skeg. Once that screw is in, screw in the second screw and you're done!