Castles and watchtowers on its seven hills. Old neighbourhoods with colourful azulejos and sounds of fado echoing down the cobbled streets. Monuments that remind us that this is where Europeans set out to explore the rest of the world, where the city's river meets the Atlantic. Fishing villages and cosmopolitan beaches, old trams and hip bars. Lisbon has its own special personality, its own beautiful contrasts, its own way of charming you.
But the beauty, in its case, is that its charm is not exercised by individual buildings or museums. Sightseeing in Lisbon is not about specific addresses, but entire neighbourhoods. That's why, as you'll see below, the Portuguese capital is worth exploring by district - discovering in each one, as you stroll around, their highlights. As for expenses, apart from the "sadness" of the always hefty airfares, the "precision" of life will remind you of Athens - neither too expensive nor too expensive. Put on comfortable shoes and get lost in beautiful neighborhoods, such as:
*Alfama
Lisbon's oldest neighborhood is not glitzy, but is nonetheless unique and beautiful. The old buildings are clad in the typical azulejos, ethnic patterned tiles for which there is even an "Azulejos Museum" in the city, while the narrow cobbled streets are perfect for scenic strolls under flowered balconies, colourful laundry and iron lanterns. The cobbled streets often lead to cool little squares with Portuguese taverns. In the 'high' part of the neighbourhood, between Alfama and the Castle, is the imposing Lisbon Cathedral, which locals call by the Lacanian 'Sé' - an impressive structure a la Notre Dame with excellent views.
*St. George's Castle
At the top of the hill above Alfama, dominates the city's castle, which is very much alive since it is inhabited within its walls. Here you will get lost in the cobbled streets, gardens and temples and end up at the edge of the fortifications, used from the Romans to the Visigoths, to admire the colourful canvas of the city beneath your feet. Extra points if you get up here on the scenic yellow tram that starts from the centre.
*The miradouros
And while we're on the subject of the view from the castle, that's not your only chance to gawk there. As a true heptagonal city, the Portuguese capital has taken advantage of many focal points on high ground, turning them into "miradouros", or lookouts.
Mini squares have been beautifully landscaped to compensate for those who can endure the panting to get to them - some of the best miradouros are that of Santa Catarina in the Bairro Alto area, which also has a nice café, the legendary Elevador de Santa Justa, a neo-Gothic monument elevator that will take you up to the top to enjoy stunning views right across the castle, the Miradouros da Graça, dos Portas do Sol or de Santa Lucia at the top of Alfama for incredible views of the Tagus River and the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, above Rossio Square in the centre.
*The Belem
The port of Lisbon, on the edge of the city, whose name means "Bethlehem", is protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, as three of the most important monuments of the Old Continent are "hidden" here: The Tower of Belem, at the edge of the sea, where the great European navigators once sailed from to discover the world, the Monument of Explorations, at the "crossroads" of the Tagus and the Atlantic Ocean, and the imposing Monastery of the Hieronymites, a masterpiece of architecture - its style is so distinctive that it has its own name, called Manueline, because of King Manuel I who decided to rebuild it in 1502 to honour Vasco da Gama.
The monks of the Order of St. Jerome lived in the monastery, providing spiritual guidance to explorers, and today it serves as a museum, among other things. It is also the tomb of Vasco da Gama and the national poet of Portugal, Fernando Pesoa.
*The central neighbourhood of Baixa and Chiado
Modern yet quaint, the Baixa is the modern city centre, here where you will find shops for shopping therapy on Lisbon's major avenidas (avenues), stopping every now and then to rest in large squares with outdoor bistros. In the neighbouring Chiado you'll 'browse' the bookstores, wander uphill between theatre stages and expensive restaurants, and sit for coffee at the legendary Café Brasileira, with its statue of Pessoa next to its tables - the same tables where the poet himself used to hang out.
*The hip neighbourhood of Bairro Alto
A stone's throw (and several uphill streets) from Chiado, Lisbon's "Upper Town" is now bustling with life, as the heart of its hip community beats here, arty bars sprout up in its alleys, street art flourishes and bohemian restaurants sprout tables on the small sidewalks. Here you'll also find several casas de fado, music scenes where you'll hear Portugal's typical elegiac songs.
*The Atlantic villages
We stray slightly from the centre of Lisbon, following the road to the Atlantic coast, where in the summer months the city's inhabitants seek the coolness of the ocean. Of the closer options, Cascais is less than half an hour by local train from the city centre and is a cosmopolitan resort with an organised (but expensive) beach and a large shopping centre for shopping or dining. Infinitely more picturesque, the famous Sintra is the classic day trip that all visitors to Lisbon take, to admire its dolloped historic centre, colourful houses, the impressive Pena Palace and Castelo dos Mouros, as well as views of the Atlantic from the mountains and the region's National Park. Don't miss the chance to try fresh fish in the local restaurants - the town is famous for its impressive cod recipes.
*The Parque das Nacoes
On the opposite side of the city, at the point in northeast Lisbon where the Vasco da Gama Bridge crosses the Tagus, is the large park that was formed a decade and a half ago to host the World Trade Fair, and is now home to large shopping malls, casinos, outdoor theme parks and an aquarium that your underage travelers will love.
*Gulbenkian Museum
If it's worth putting a museum on your schedule for some much-needed sightseeing, it's the Gulbenkian Foundation Museum just north of downtown. Built in the center of a lush garden, the stately building houses the Armenian magnate Gulbenkian's priceless collection of Western and Oriental art, including masterpieces from ancient Egypt, the Roman era, Islamic art, the Middle Ages, and the 20th century.
*The Portuguese cuisine
At the BA Wine Bar do Bairro Alto in the homonymous district you will taste a wide variety of Portuguese wines, accompanied by fine delicacies (around 18€ per person).
At Frade dos Mares you will taste incredible seafood recipes, exquisite octopus, crayfish, great sea bass and vegan risotto (around 25€ per person).
At Frangasqueira Nacional near the Botanical Garden, you'll be satisfied with the outdoor barbecue feast, with flavours like ribs, chicken, sausage and aromatic rice - around 10-15€ per person.
At Winebar do Castelo you'll taste excellent port and other local wines accompanied by excellent tapas - around 12-15€ per person.
At Pois Café in the Cathedral neighbourhood you will enjoy stews, organic salads and homemade drinks in a warm friendly environment (around 10-15€).
At Clube de Jornalistas you will taste fusion cuisine and flavours that blend Mediterranean with Brazilian and Portuguese traditions in an elegant, romantic setting - around 25-35€ per person.
At the small Taberna Sal Grosso, you'll be introduced to home-style Portuguese cuisine - with a focus on chicken and cod (around 15-20€ per person).
How to get there
Unfortunately, there is no direct connection between Athens and Lisbon. Among the cheapest fares we've spotted for this summer are those with Portugal, with a stopover at the Lisbon airport in Lisbon, from €270 return in July - or from €256 in September with Austrian or Portugal's national carrier, TAP, in partnership with Aegean.
Where to stay
At Hotel Delta in the Saldanha neighbourhood in the city centre, in simple, comfortable double rooms costing from €53.
At the VIP Inn Berna Hotel near Campo Pequeno central station, with its well-kept rooms from €53.
At the Residencial Londrina, with its small but welcoming rooms in the heart of Lisbon, close to the city's main avenues, from 52€.
At the VIP Executive Zurique Hotel in the centre, near Entrecampos station, with simple, well-kept rooms from €55.75.
At Alfama's Nest, the "homey" apartments in the heart of Alfama's old town, with large rooms, living rooms and a fully equipped kitchen, from 59€.