Gucci has a long and storied history. Over the century since founder Guccio opened the company, it has transformed into a global empire.
Throughout its evolution, a number of powerful personalities have driven its reinvention and rebirths. These changemakers differed radically in personal values and fashion philosophies but they all had one thing in common: a burning desire to push the brand to unimaginable heights of prestige and cultural relevance.
Aldo Gucci
Born in 1905 in Florence, Italy to parents Guccio and Aida Gucci (nee Calvelli), Aldo was the eldest of the five children. He grew up interested in equestrianism and botany and eventually received a degree in economics from San Marco College in Florence, which helped him develop the business acumen needed to expand Gucci.
The Gucci brand quickly expanded into the American market, opening stores in Beverly Hills, Palm Beach, Paris and Tokyo. It became a symbol of prestige and high society, per Women's Wear Daily.
In New York, Aldo re-established the brand in a prime location at 7 East 58th Street in Manhattan, a nod to his family's early start as bellboys in the Savoy Hotel in London. He also launched a perfume division, holding 80 percent of the company for himself and his three sons.
However, family tension erupted when Paolo Gucci tried to launch his own business under the Gucci name, an attempt that Aldo disapproved and sued him. He eventually got him removed from the company in 1984 with the help of his cousin Maurizio Gucci, who had just taken control of the business.
Maurizio Gucci
The name Gucci is synonymous with Italian luxury, so it’s no surprise that Maurizio Gucci was a designer with a passion for his country’s craftsmanship. Born in 1948, he was the son of actor Rodolfo Gucci and grandson of company founder and CEO Guccio Gucci.
As an heir to the dynasty, Maurizio grew up surrounded by his family’s business and aspired to become the brand’s chief designer. He married PatriziaReggiani in 1972, but the union strained their relationship with their father.
After his divorce, Maurizio sat on his uncle Aldo’s 50 per cent share of the company but was determined to take over the rest. He tried to forge his uncle’s signature on a tax form, but he was acquitted.
Maurizio was killed in 1995 by a hitman hired by his ex-wife, PatriziaReggiani. The murder was a traumatic experience for both families, but it also inspired the Ridley Scott film House of Gucci.
Alessandro Michele
Alessandro Michele, who studied at Rome's Academy of Costume and Fashion, has been the creative director of Gucci since 2015. He is known for his eclectic aesthetic that combines colors and embellishments to create unique designs.
He infused many Renaissance-inspired elements into his designs and the overall visual identity of the luxury label. He also staged elaborate runway shows in historic venues and embraced the opulent heritage of the brand.
In his seven years as the designer, he helped revive and transform the fortunes of Gucci, which is now the biggest driver of sales for international luxury group Kering. His bold, eclectic aesthetic, rooted in colors and embellishments, helped to increase the sales of the label.
Michele's collections were also inspired by movies, artwork, and eras such as the 1930s. His genderfluid collections often blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear, making them more accessible to mainstream consumers. He introduced eco-friendly products and made sustainability a priority for the brand. In 2017, Gucci eliminated its use of fur, and in 2019 the brand went carbon neutral.
Kering
The French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns Gucci along with Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga, recently appointed Sabato De Sarno as its new creative director for men's and women's ready-to-wear. He's a veteran designer who was previously at Valentino and has been at Kering since 2002, working across the label's most recognisable luxury brands.
For Gucci, the new designer will have to generate a strong statement and make the brand stand out again as it struggles to reclaim its luster following Alessandro Michele's exit in November. The designer had overseen a period of soaring growth in 2015-19 with eccentric, gender-fluid designs that were popular with younger consumers.
Kering also needs to address the increasing threat from LVMH, which has taken the slowdown in demand in China as an opportunity to experiment with alternative strategies to drive brand equity and generate demand. For instance, LVMH has rebranded its iconic "LV" logo-printed leather goods and replaced them with a more subdued design. It has also used Chinese local celebrities as brand ambassadors, such as Fan Bingbing.