Straightening the grain of your fabric is part of the process of preparing your fabric to get that professional look you want. It is absolutely essential prior to cutting your fashion fabric. In fact, both the pattern and fabric may both need attention before you do the final layout, and the success of your finished garment depends on how you prepared your fabric.
In order to understand why you should straighten the grain of the fabric, I think you should know a little about how fabrics are made or constructed.
One of the oldest methods of making fabrics is by interlacing two sets of threads together in a process known as weaving. One set of threads is stretched on a frame (loom) and is called the warp or lengthwise threads.
The other set is inserted so that they go over and under the warp threads to form a fabric. Since these threads travel back and forth from one side to the other, they are called crosswise or filling threads.
As the filling threads go back and forth, they go around the warp threads on the edges and form a self-edge, or what is called the selvage. This selvage edge is woven and smooth and it does not stretch or ravel.
During the manufacturing process, the fabric may have been pulled off-grain, so that grain lines are no longer perfect right angles. A garment made with an off-grain fabric will not hang correctly, so re-alignment must be done before cutting.
In clothing design and construction, the threads are referred to as grain. Grains indicate the direction of the thread. The warp threads are known as the lengthwise grain and usually run lengthwise on the body, from shoulder to hemline. The lengthwise grain has very little give or stretch.
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