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How To Prepare A Wall Before Hanging a Wallpaper

Here is a quick step-by-step prep guide before you hang a wallpaper.

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By now, you've already heard why many home decorators say why you do enjoy wallpaper design, to put it: as the wallpapers comes down, you will leave the wall in a decent to bad shape. Don't fret, dear reader. No matter how bad the wall is, it's not permanent. Before you paint, you will have to scrape the wallpaper paste, but this merely adds one more step to the process and the accomplishment of your goal: to build a smooth, clean wall that will quickly absorb vibrant brushstrokes of paint and complement the canvas portraits of your choice.

 

Line a wallpapered space, and you've got instant lighting. From blank to bold in a matter of hours, the paper will push limits beyond what paint can do. It animates walls with textures or shapes, or both—your pick. And as a bonus, it also hides fine plaster and drywall imperfections.

 

But as much as homeowners want a great home background, they rarely get it right, cursing their peeling seams and misaligned patterns—enough it's to drive you up a wall. We've seen a lot, from how he plans the project to the way he's lining up the last seam. For this kind of insider know-how, the papering has just gotten a lot smoother.

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Step #1

The layout is the secret to understanding how to hang wallpaper. Giving attention to the order in which the paper goes up means that your pattern remains well-matched and looks straight as a matter of interior design

 

But no matter how good the technique is, the sequence between the first and the last strip will rarely line up. Always begins the job behind the door for a great look on your home background. You must paper out of the corner until you enter the space above the door—the least visible position in the building for a great interior design.

 

Quite sometimes, the last strip of paper on the wall is not a whole sheet of paper.

 

Step #2

Paint the whole room with a wall primer/sizer. Unroll the wallpapers. When you do, look for defects and draw the paper to the worktable's edge to eliminate the curl.

 

Break the paper into sheets 4 inches larger than the height of the walls. Break the same spot on the repeat, so the shapes on the neighboring sheets match up.

 

Place the cut sheet on the counter, face down. Apply a thin film of translucent premixed wallpaper to the back of the paper using a paint roller.

 

Step #3

Fold the pasted back of the paper to itself, with the top and bottom ends in the center. Allow sure the sides of the side match up exactly. Smooth the document on itself as much as you can without cleaning the folds.

 

Place the paper aside to soak the paste in, and the paper can be calm. Be sure to observe the exact time of booking recommended on the wallpaper mark, which varies based on the contents, more for vinyl-coated wallcoverings, less for uncoated papers.

 

Step #4

Start at the corner of the entrance. If the door is far from the corner, draw a line of reference parallel to the door near the corner. Unfold the top of the document. Hang it on the wall about 2 inches at the ceiling and 1/8 inch at the corner, make it a great home background. Press it gently on the mark.

 

Unfold the bottom of your book and let it hang. Check the measurement between the paper and the door box or the reference line. Change the paper to hold it parallel to the door but still overlap at least 1⁄8 inch in the corner.

 

Step #5

Once you align the sheet, use the paper's edge to position the paper in the corner of the ceiling. Then, starting from the top-down, brush the smoother over the whole board. Don't click too hard to force out the glue.

 

Remove extra paper from the roof: force a 6-inch tap knife into the joint between the wall and the ceiling. Using a razor, cut the excess over the knife to trim. Work slowly, please—alternate between cutting the knife and pushing it. Don't slip the razor and knife together. Continue to paper to a point above the entrance.

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Step #6

Draw a plumb line (if there is no door or window) on the adjacent wall. Hang a strip in the corner of it. Cover the original portion on the opposite wall by 1/8 inch. Measure the plumb line and change the paper to keep the gap equal. Gently smooth the paper. Trim to the roof and trim to the corner.

 

Hang the next sheet of paper. Unfold the cover of the book and place it on the wall. Match the pattern as precisely as possible, leaving just the breadth of the hair between the covers.

 

Step #7

Push the top of the document against the wall gently. Then roll the seam gently with the seam roller to flatten the edges. Now use the tips of your fingertips to close the seam.

 

Unfold the bottom of the sheet and end the match and cover the seam. Then roll the whole seam securely, working a full 3 inches from the tip. It secures the seam, preventing it from opening while you smooth the page.

 

Gently smooth the entire board. Continue to paper the space, overlapping and trimming corners as seen in Step #5.

 

Step #8

Let the paper overlap the molding at least one inch at the doors and windows. Develop a relief slit in the paper with the knife. Carefully run the razor from the molding corner to the edge of the page. Use the molding as a reference.

 

Press the cut edge firmly in the joint between the molding and the wall. Remove the excess paper flap with a taping knife and a razor. Smooth the entire layer down.

 

Step #9

Paper plates with electrical fixtures to make them vanish. Break a sheet of wallpapers bigger than a piece of parchment. Break the part of the pattern that suits the paper on the wall around the turn.

 

Apply the paste to the pan, then put it on the paper face down. Hold both of them on the wall and change the paper to match the pattern on the wall.

 

Keep the paper and flip it down the face of the plate. Cut corners away from the plate 1/8 inch. Wrap the paper over the top of the plate and tape it over. Cut the switch or receptacle holes out with the blade. Don't forget to create X's in the openings of the bolt. Screw the plates back to the wall.

 

Step #10

Pay particular attention to gaps in the plaster along with the door and window frames and around the top of the skirting boards; rake out any cracks and cover with a flexible decorator sealant.

 

In the end, the surface would need to be scaled. It is achieved either by brushing on the scale or diluting a wallpaper paste mixture-most packets to provide specifics of mixing for sizing. Ideally, the height should contain a fungicide, which is especially important when planning a wall to hang vinyl wallpapers as part of a good interior design.

 

For older wallpapers, you have to apply enough moisture to get through the paper to soak the glue that keeps it in place. You can achieve it by applying hot water or a large-sponge industrial wallpaper remover. Multiple layers of paper closely bound to the wall should be perforated to allow the water to enter. There are various ways to pierce the paper; you can cut it with a utility knife, drag the handwheel over the board, or brush it with rough sandpaper. 

 

Louie is the father behind the travel blog Browseeverywhere.com. He has a background in photography, E-commerce, and writing product reviews online at ConsumerReviews24. Traveling full time with his family was his ultimate past-time. If he’s not typing on his laptop, you can probably find him watching movies.