Fence Repair - Replacing a busted Fence Post
It may sound just like a daunting task to replace a broken fence post however it is significantly less difficult as it might seem. It can take a little bit of elbow grease and several simple tools you probably already have inside the shed or garage. Where does one start? Is actually a program should assess the project as well as the damage. Did the post rot and simply break or maybe it was sheered off because of some nasty conditions. Will there be still a remaining stump or is it broken off in the ground or concrete level? Don't be afraid, the job is moderately difficult and will only take about One to two hours of their time to complete as well as your fence will be terrific once again.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Time Required: Approximately 1 to 2 Hours
- Pry Bar
- 1 Replacement Post - Typically 4" x 4" x 8' Cedar or Treated Lumber
- 1 - 80 Pound Bag of Quickrete Concrete Mix
- 3" Wood Screws (Approximately 12 Screws)
- Auger or Clam Shell Post Hole Digger
- Bag of Gravel
- Hand Saw or Circular Saw
Typically, most fence posts are set in to the ground using concrete but other people installed using packed dirt inside the fence post hole. Unless you see concrete with the walk out, take a common shovel and dig down a number of inches nearby the broken post location to see in the event you hit concrete. Most fence posts are set in concrete and for the most part a regular post hole is roughly eight (8") to twelve (12") inches across and a lot have to do with twenty-four (24") inches deep.
There are various schools of thought in relation to removing a pre-existing post. Some people choose to smash and grab technique that is simply using a hammer and chisel or pry bar to interrupt the concrete into small pieces and pull them from the existing hole 1 by 1. The technique does work but is a lot of work and it can take between one (1) and a couple (2) hours of labor to extract the concrete from your hole. It's fine if you have one particular post to replace however, if you can find multiple, the work involved is incredibly tedious and tiring and there are better ways.
The method I enjoy would be to require a long, skinny bladed shovel and find the dirt in order to the inside of the concrete exposing the side with the concrete block. Make certain you pile the dirt towards the hole as the dirt you remove will probably be accustomed to re-pack the hole as soon as the post and concrete block is taken away from the ground. From the regarding the concrete, find out about six (6") to eight (8") inches and down twenty-four (24") inches. This enables to get a pocket as wide as the concrete block. In case a piece or stump through the existing post is still set up, you can use it and initiate moving the concrete block back and forth while using the new pocket space you simply created. Once it is loose, you need to be able to use your shovel or pry bar as being a lever and lift the concrete block from your hole. Be cautious and make sure you lift using your legs since the concrete block can weigh up to eighty (80) pounds. If the existing post or post stump is not attached to the concrete, you ought to be able to utilize a pry bar or even your shovel to advance the prevailing concrete block forward and backward in a similar manner loosening it from its original placement. Once, the block is movable, make use of the same process as stated before but be careful to utilize proper lifting techniques when removing the concrete. A doctors visit just isn't prescribed with this project.
When the block is taken off, utilize the dirt you taken off the excavation to fill in the six (6") to eight (8") inches you originally dug out. Be sure you pack the dirt solidly because it provides the lateral support for that new post if it's available. The concrete you employ if you set the modern post will provide a good amount of support as well as attaching the prevailing fence structure however the better you pack the dirt, the higher the end result. You ought to be left with a standard hole approximately twenty-four (24") inches deep and approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches wide.
From this point, you should take the clam digger or post hole digger or if you don't have one, only use your shovel and find approximately two (2") inches in the bottom from the hole. Atart exercising . loose gravel in these two (2") inches for drainage to hold water outside the bottom from the post. If you do not have or would not buy a bag of gravel if you purchased your replacement post and concrete, do not worry. The concrete has gravel inside and will work however the gravel does make the drainage more efficient. After you have the base available, it's about time to install the replacement post.
Grab your replacement post and center it in the hole. When you have a helper, you can keep them retain the post and be sure that it lines up correctly with all the fence along with the old post you merely removed. Once you have it from the correct position, open an eighty (80) pound bag of Quickrete concrete and pour it dry in to the hole. Be certain that you're wearing eye protection and cover orally which means you don't inhale the concrete dust that typically spews out of the hole because you pour within the mixture. Pour all of the contents in the hole. Grab the garden hose or perhaps a bucket of water and begin pouring water into the hole and ensure to pour throughout the new post within a circular pattern to actually obtain the whole top layer with the concrete wet. The river will quickly bubble mainly because it starts seeping on the bottom. Continue to add water until it pools a little. It's going to absorb from the mix. At this time, take your pry bar or a piece of rebar or possibly a sturdy stick and begin poking the concrete mixture to assist have the water circulate into the underside in addition to take away the air bubbles that form. It's OK if the water pools somewhat try not to increase the risk for mixture too wet as it will take longer to set.
Now take the level and make certain that the post remains in their upright vertical position. It's helpful should you review multiple sides and be sure the bubble around the level influences middle and between the marks. After the post is level, use items of wood to make a stand of sorts towards the bottom to help keep the post motionless whilst the concrete arranges overnight. The concrete begins setting and depending on the climate must be ready the very next day to re-hang a gate pieces. When the post moves, wiggle it in to the vertical position then using your stick or pry bar, move the concrete mix around therefore it touches the post on all sides in your yard without gaps. If gaps form, you may have to put in a amount of additional water to help make the mixture more liquid. Any pooled water will likely be absorbed into the concrete and surrounding dirt plus evaporate because concrete sets.
The following day, you ought to be capable of re-affix the fence for the post plus it needs to be terrific once again. When you attach the old fence pieces, you can examine the height with the fence post when compared to the other posts with your fence line. Based on the all your fence, you might want to work with a hand or electric saw to slice the newest post to match the opposite posts on your own fence. In the event the post does not need to be cut, then you can attach the old fence pieces on the new post. Make sure to use screws if you attach a gate it into the new post to make certain an even more stable connection than nails which can grab in windy or weather conditions after a while causing integrity issues.